The Role of the Serpent in Jewelry
Snakes have always been on the pedestal of the most popular animals that inspire artisans all over the world to make breathtaking pieces of jewelry using the finest materials. While the reptile itself can awake controversial feelings, its significance in culture is undeniable and deserves the closest examination. Its symbolism is so diverse that it varies from worshiping it (Aztec civilization) to portraying as the origin of evil that tempted Eve in the Garden of Eden to commit the downfall. In fact, Christianity is one of a few religions that depicts the serpent in an unfavorable light. In contrast, it is considered a helper in Buddhism since Mucalinda, the snake king, helped Buddha to complete seven days of his meditation. Mayas believed that serpents carried the sun and moon across the dome of the sky and served as the symbol of rebirth and great wisdom.
In ancient Egypt the image of the snake biting its tail could be seen in the majority of the documents. Ouroboros has a meaning of life and death in one.
In Roman times it was also the symbol of cynical character of nature. Two opposites that cannot exist without each other as with rebirth comes death, light brings the darkness — stoicism has done a great job explaining the codependency of these phenomena, so we will not spend too much time on it. However, it took centuries for the snake motif to become popular among masses and leave the narrow niche of alchemists and flamen. The world owes the trend for serpents in jewelry to Queen Victoria whose engagement ring was in the shape of the aforementioned reptile that symbolized eternal love of her union with Prince Albert.
Flora and fauna came in the spotlight during Art Nouveau era, bringing more sophistication into the world of jewelry and creating the entirely new storylines in the motives. Originated in France, this movement became a transit period from conventional approaches to the new, avant-garde style and techniques. Symbolism was at the core values of it, allowing artisans experiment and express themselves to the full force. Basse-Taille and Guilloche techniques made it possible to create unique, repetitive patterns on the items. Diamonds were no longer a priority and served as “a cherry on top”, something that would add emphasis to the creation. Instead, minerals and pearls had the leading positions.
For the serpent design, the second milestone occurred thanks to the house of Cartier and their collaboration with María Félix, the actress from Mexico, who had been wearing snake-shaped jewelry way before the famous maison created their legendary necklace. Having visited one of the stores, the actress ordered this accessory in the shape of a large snake. Two years and 2,473 oval-cut diamonds later, it was sitting perfectly around her neck, gleaming in the sunlight. It is significant that such extravagant design is not common for Cartier since the luxury house favors refinement, boldness and simplicity. However, this extraordinary piece later on inspired the creation of the crocodile necklace that could compete with the snake one in terms of the size and lavishness.
Another magnificent creation by Cartier is the “Eternity” necklace made from two emeralds of 205 and 206 carat.
Despite the inerasable print that Cartier has left in the history of art jewelry, it is Bvlgari that is usually associated with the serpent as it is the house’s official emblem. The heritage takes its origins in the Greek and Roman times when it was considered the guardian spirit and symbolized eincarnation of Erichthonius, an early king in ancient Greece. The Tubogas technique allows the pieces to be wrapped securely around the owner’s neck or wrist, repeating the pattern of the snake’s scales. The birth of Serpenti commemorated the beginning of 2021 for Bvlgari with the reference to the celling of the Palazzo Falconieri. The calm wisdom and serenity of the serpent reflects the house’s class and sophistication. The famous Viper pendant is adorned with emeralds, seductively glaring at whoever dares to have a look at this ensemble of brilliance and creativity.
The Bvlgari’s Serpenti inspired the famous Boucheron’s collection the ‘Serpent Boheme’ making it one of the most expensive masterpieces in history of art jewelry. This time the diamonds are in the shape of teardrops paired with white gold. The rest of the pieces in the collection do not resemble the snake so obviously, giving space to imagination. Among the featured gems are lapis, rhodolite, citrine.
